French almond producers revive traditional methods to compete with US dominance.

The sweet aroma of marzipan fills the air as artisans from a century-old southern French confectionery craft calissons, a renowned Provenal treat made from candied melon and crushed almonds. Over the last ten years, French almond growers have been working to revive the region's almond production, ensuring that this historic delicacy, first made in Provence under King Rene in the 15th century, increasingly uses locally cultivated almonds.

Provence, famous for its almond blossoms that inspired artists like Vincent Van Gogh, was once a major hub for almond cultivation. However, production sharply declined during the mid-20th century, particularly after the 1956 frost that devastated orchards.

While most almonds today come from the United States, French producers are determined to preserve their domestic crop. Their strategy focuses on positioning Provence-grown almonds as a premium product while highlighting environmentally conscious farming practices. Alexis Bertucat, communications director at Le Roy Rene in Aix-en-Provence, explained, "Even without being a world-famous pastry chef, you can immediately taste the difference between an American almond and a Provence-grown almond."

Le Roy Rene uses roughly 50 tonnes of locally sourced almonds annually to produce specialties such as calissons and nougat. When Olivier Baussan, founder of LOccitane en Provence, acquired the company in 2014, it still relied on imported American and Spanish almonds. However, the initiative to cultivate local almonds and revive a centuries-old tradition soon gained momentum.

Bertucat emphasized that local farmers' sustainable practices, such as careful irrigation and fostering healthy soil, contribute to almonds with a high fat content, enhancing the flavor when combined with candied fruit and sugar. He added, "Using almonds closer to home also reduces our carbon footprint."

France now has more than 2,700 hectares of almond orchards, producing about 1,200 tonnes of shelled almonds annuallya small fraction of the 50,000 tonnes imported. Francois Moulias, a local producer, said production is gradually increasing but will remain limited relative to global demand. "We would need 50,000 hectares to meet our needs," he noted. In 2018, Moulias co-founded La Compagnie des Amandes with former minister Arnaud Montebourg to support farmers in planting almond trees.

The company now manages 230 hectares of almond groves in southern France. Moulias explained, "Using more sustainable agricultural methods means our yields cannot match American levels," adding that French almonds require five times less water than Californian crops. A new processing facility supplies high-end pastry makers, supermarkets, and the cosmetics sector.

Cherry grower Fabien Dauphin began cultivating almonds in 2011 to diversify his crops, following his great-grandfathers legacy before the 1956 frost. As president of the Provence almond producers union, Dauphin manages 22 hectares of almond orchards in Cucuron, with production making up half of his income through market and online sales. "It remains a niche market, often catering to affluent customers," he said. Dauphin is also exploring pistachio cultivation, which shares similar equipment and clientele with almonds.

Analysis: The Revival of Provence’s Almond Industry

The revival of Provence’s almond industry represents a critical intersection of tradition, sustainability, and innovation. Over the past decade, efforts by local farmers and producers have gradually restored almond cultivation in the region, turning it into a premium product. Historically, almonds flourished in the area, but the industry’s decline, particularly after the 1956 frost, threatened the survival of an iconic regional treat: the calisson. With local almond production now being prioritized, Provence's almond-based products are gaining prominence in the global market.

The key to this revival lies in the region's focus on sustainable agricultural practices. Farmers such as Alexis Bertucat of Le Roy Rene and Francois Moulias are working to grow high-fat-content almonds using environmentally conscious techniques, such as careful irrigation and promoting soil health. This has allowed them to produce almonds that stand out in terms of flavor, directly influencing the quality of products like calissons, nougat, and more. While this approach ensures superior taste, it also minimizes environmental impact, particularly when compared to global competitors like the United States, where almonds are grown using more intensive methods.

Despite these advancements, production remains limited. France's almond orchards cover only 2,700 hectares, yielding just 1,200 tonnes annually. In comparison, the country imports over 50,000 tonnes of almonds. Local producers like Fabien Dauphin, who grows almonds alongside cherries, have successfully tapped into a niche market, catering mostly to affluent customers willing to pay a premium for quality. However, scaling up production to meet the broader demand presents challenges, given the region’s reliance on sustainable farming practices, which yield lower quantities than mass-produced almonds from California.

Ultimately, while the revival of Provence’s almond industry is a testament to the region's resilience and commitment to quality, it remains a niche market with limited production capacity. The efforts of organizations like La Compagnie des Amandes and local growers suggest that with continued support and sustainable practices, Provence may be able to carve out a more significant position in the global almond market, while simultaneously preserving its cultural and environmental heritage.

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• French almond makers revive traditions to counter US dominance

Author: Ava Mitchell
Ava Mitchell is a journalist covering culture, art, and literature. She is known for her creative approach and ability to produce in-depth features and interviews.