Anthony Bourdain Says The Best Breakfast in the Universe Can Be Found in NYC

Anthony Bourdain was never shy about sharing his culinary dislikes, but when he found something exceptional, he spoke about it with genuine admiration. Despite generally avoiding brunch, he had a go-to place in his hometown that he celebrated as serving the best breakfast in the world: Barney Greengrass, also known as the Sturgeon King, in New York City.

Operating for over a century, Barney Greengrass first opened in Harlem in 1908 and has become a staple of traditional Jewish deli cuisine. Bourdain featured the restaurant in his debut TV series, "A Cook's Tour," where he highlighted two personal favorites, both centered around the establishments smoked fish, a specialty that earned the eatery its regal nickname from a New York state senator in 1938.

For the show, Bourdain selected sturgeon, describing it as "flaky yet firm, with a delicate, buttery flavor," and crowned it "the king of smoked fish." He enjoyed it simply on a toasted plain bagel with cream cheese, accompanied by tomatoes, onions, pickles, and olives. He also sampled scrambled eggs paired with Nova lox and caramelized onions, noting how the savory eggs complemented the rich, salty fish. Before leaving, he purchased some chopped liver to take home, calling it "fluffy, ethereal" and the "best anywhere."

Even outside of filming, Bourdain often praised Barney Greengrass. In a 2005 interview with The Guardian, he mentioned that New York breakfasts were the first thing he missed when traveling. Following his passing in 2018, the restaurant honored him by placing his usual Nova scrambled eggs and bagel order at an empty tablethe same table featured in "A Cook's Tour."

Barney Greengrass offers an extensive menu beyond sturgeon and Nova lox, including smoked whitefish, sable, caviar, herring, pastrami, corned beef, tongue, chopped chicken liver, and a variety of salads made with tuna, eggs, and salmon. Bagels, bialys, cream cheese spreads, and Jewish specialties such as latkes, blintzes, and knishes are also available.

The restaurant continues to receive acclaim. It earned the James Beard Foundations "American Classics" award in 2006, and in 2024, the New York Times ranked it 66th among all New York City restaurants. Today, Barney Greengrass remains family-run, led by Gary Greengrass, grandson of the founder. His personal favorite? Whitefish with Nova lox, vegetable cream cheese, tomato, and onion on a toasted bialy.

Author: Logan Reeves