Daraya's Rebirth: Rebels Rebuilding Syria's Abandoned City

Like a shadow moving through ruins, Bilal Shorba, known as the "Syrian Banksy," crept through Daraya to paint his murals, careful not to attract attention from Assads forces. Returning from exile to the city that lost its entire population during Syrias nearly 14-year civil war, he was astonished that some of his artwork had survived.

One striking mural on a shattered house, titled "The Symphony of the Revolution," depicts the journey from peaceful protest to violent conflicta woman playing the violin as gunmen aim their weapons at her. Shorba, 31, considers the murals survival a small triumph. "Despite the massacres, despite our exile, these simple murals have remained, and the regime is gone," he said.

Daraya holds a symbolic place in Syria's revolution. Only seven kilometers from Damascus and visible from Assad's presidential palace, its residents initially greeted soldiers with flowers during peaceful protests in 2011. The cost of that defiance was devastating: over 700 people were killed in a mass execution in August 2012, and a brutal four-year siege followed. By 2016, the city was emptied of its 250,000 residents.

Shorba joined the rebels in Daraya in 2013, carrying only a few days clothes, a sketchbook, pencils, and an Arabic copy of Victor Hugo's "Les Misrables." He endured years of siege and bombardment before evacuation in 2016 to northwest Syria, later moving to Turkey to refine his art.

Now back in Daraya, Shorba aims to replace murals celebrating Assad with new art. Residentswomen, children, and men cleared of opposition tieshave gradually returned since 2019, with most men coming back after Assads fall in December 2024. Many bring new skills, savings, or democratic experience acquired abroad, contributing to the citys revival.

Despite the determination of its people, Daraya faces enormous challenges: 65% of buildings destroyed, 14% severely damaged, limited water and power, and overflowing sewage in some areas. Yet Hussam Lahham, a civil society leader and former military commander, returned immediately with his young family. "We are the only ones capable of rebuilding our homes," he said, emphasizing local initiative over waiting for external aid.

Reconstruction is slow but visible. Families occupy partially ruined apartments, roofs are repaired, facades restored, water pumps fixed, and workshops reopened. Yet essential services remain scarce. None of Darayas four hospitals function; the National Hospital, once serving a million, lies in rubble, looted of pipes and cables. Doctors Without Borders runs the only operational medical center, but healthcare shortages limit population return.

Returning professionals like Dr. Hussam Jamus, an ENT specialist, are reviving medical care. Previously exiled in Jordan, he treated hundreds in a short time upon returning, aiming to serve the community as it rebuilds.

Media has also returned. Enab Baladi, founded in Daraya at the wars start, continues to report independently despite dangers, covering sensitive issues across Syria. Journalists work to maintain a platform for free expression even under new authorities.

Families like Mohammed Nakkashs, whose children were born in exile, face adaptation challenges. Schools are damaged, teachers scarce, and students must relearn Arabic and adjust after schooling abroad. Nakkash, a carpenter, helps rebuild homes while living with relatives in temporary arrangements.

Reconstructing Daraya also involves honoring the dead. Before the city fell in 2016, activists documented graves to protect the dignity of victims. Using these records, 421 gravestones have been restored. Mass graves from the August 2012 massacre remain, as families like Amneh Khoulanis search for their missing loved ones, balancing grief with the struggle to rebuild.

Shorba has commemorated the lost through new murals at the cemetery, where children like a little girl place roses in memory of a father with no grave. Despite ongoing challenges, Darayas returnees continue to reconstruct not just buildings, but community, memory, and hope.

Rebuilding Daraya: A Tale of Resilience and Reconstruction

As Daraya begins the long and challenging process of rebuilding, its residents show incredible resilience despite the enormous obstacles they face. The city's history, marked by immense suffering and loss, now carries the hopes of a community determined to reclaim its future. The survival of Bilal Shorba's murals, like "The Symphony of the Revolution," symbolizes the endurance of the city's spirit. While the physical destruction is stark, the collective effort to restore Daraya reflects more than just reconstruction—it is an act of cultural and historical preservation.

The return of displaced individuals to Daraya, including professionals and activists, has infused the city with fresh skills and perspectives. However, this renewal comes at a steep cost. The city’s infrastructure remains shattered, with critical services like healthcare and education in disarray. The challenge of providing adequate services while maintaining the local economy is exacerbated by the absence of international aid, forcing residents to rely on their own resources and initiatives.

Despite these difficulties, there is clear evidence of progress. From the restoration of rooftops to the revival of local businesses, Daraya is slowly recovering. Yet, the ongoing struggle for basic necessities like water, power, and medical care underscores the immense scale of the challenge. The efforts of doctors, journalists, and civil society leaders offer a glimpse into how the community is actively contributing to the city’s revival, even as it grapples with the pain of its past.

Ultimately, Daraya’s path to recovery is not just about rebuilding walls and infrastructure; it is about rebuilding trust, memory, and identity. The city’s returnees, led by figures like Shorba and Lahham, embody the spirit of defiance and hope that persists despite everything the city has endured. As they continue to rebuild their homes, they also work to restore a sense of dignity and honor to those who lost their lives in the years of conflict.

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• Daraya reborn: the rebels rebuilding Syria's deserted city