Chanel Métiers d’Art 2025: The 'C' Collection

Chanel made its way back to New York City on Tuesday, presenting the annual Mtiers dArt collection, marking the first show under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy. The presentation offered a cinematic journey through the city, showcasing Blazys visionary approach and the exceptional craftsmanship of Chanels artisans.

The event took place at 168 Bowery, in a disused subway platform once used by Tom Ford for his Spring 2020 show. Guests, including A$AP Rocky, Margaret Qualley, Tilda Swinton, Kristen Stewart, Solange, G-Dragon, Jessie Buckley, Linda Evangelista, Dapper Dan, Charlotte Casiraghi, Rose Byrne, Riley Keough, and Jon Bon Jovi, experienced the show aboard a C train as authentic subway sounds filled the space.

Front-row attendees expressed their excitement. Jenny Slate, in tweed and khakis, joked, This is my stop, the Chanel stop. Emily Ratajkowski shared that attending her first Chanel show on the subway inspired her, particularly noting a translucent raincoat paired with a sequin cheetah print.

Above ground, guests braved heavy rain and multiple security checkpoints near Kenmare Street and Bowery. Once inside, the underground venue blended the essence of Paris and downtown New York. The subway theme was central, also appearing in Michel Gondrys short film, which featured Qualley and A$AP Rocky, and in the custom La Gazette newspaper included in the invitation suite.

Blazy cited a variety of inspirations, from a 1970s journalist to an 1980s businesswoman, Gabrielle Chanels 1931 U.S. trip for cinema costumes, and diverse contemporary personalities. The collection spanned generations, from students to world leaders, and even included an unexpected Spiderman spotted on his subway rides. Highlights included a Clark Kent look with a graphic sweater beneath a plaid blazer and a fringed skirt inspired by the Empire State Building.

Blazy explained that observing downtown women adopting a Chanel-like style fueled his creativity. The show adopted a cinematic approach, with slightly exaggerated or relaxed silhouettes rendered in modern, wearable designs. Models emerged from a subway train, navigating the platform just like New Yorkers, reflecting Blazys interest in the subway as a place where all social sectors intersect.

The collection merged erasfrom 1920s beehive hairstyles to 1980s power suitswhile incorporating animal prints, tweed sets, and silks reminiscent of Astrakhan fur. A tweed reinterpretation of the 1931 Tonight or Never film poster highlighted Chanels historical legacy. The collection emphasized lightness in tweeds and occasionwear, featuring ombr dresses, flowing ballgown skirts made of frayed petals, and playful details like feather embellishments, vibrant colors, coffee cup-inspired handbags, and whimsical dog motifs.

Blazy also integrated American sportswear with luxurious knits, and introduced new boucl check flannels inspired by Pendleton fabrics. The collection aimed to reinterpret Gabrielle Chanels vision for contemporary relevance.

Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Fashion at Chanel, emphasized the importance of returning to New York, citing energy and perspective shifts since the 2018 show. The Mtiers dArt collection highlights the houses ateliers, including feather workers, goldsmiths, milliners, embroiderers, and more. Since 2002, the traveling collection has visited cities worldwide, most recently Hangzhou, Manchester, and Dakar.

Blazys approach balances chic sophistication with playful touches, incorporating both glamour and everyday New York energy. Pavlovsky stressed that Chanel prioritizes connecting with clients globally, creating shows that reflect the citys vibe rather than replicating Parisian or Tokyo presentations.

The New York show underscores the growing presence of European luxury brands in the U.S., where ready-to-wear, accessories, and handbags perform strongly. Pavlovsky highlighted that strong product quality and craftsmanship remain the foundation of Chanels success, with price resistance secondary to desirability and artisanal excellence.

Chanel recently opened a new two-level boutique at Bloomingdales flagship, but the Mtiers dArt show represents a larger engagement with the city, ambassadors, and clientele. Pavlovsky explained that the brands presence in New York is about embracing the citys energy and translating it through Matthieu Blazys unique interpretation of Chanel.

Author: Sophia Brooks