Parodi Costume Collection Reveals Exhibition Dedicated to Japanese Fashion

Amid the bustling atmosphere of Miamis Art Basel week, the Parodi Costume Collection is offering a serene experience with its Japanese fashion showcase, In Praise of Ma: Emptiness and the Space Within. The exhibit features works by Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garons, Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto, surrounding a Zen garden installed within the intimate Parodi Costume Institute gallery.

The display creates a calming retreat from the usual high-energy events, with a predominantly neutral color palette. Two striking exceptionsa pair of red and pink velvet Comme des Garons dresses from fall 2012provide the only bursts of color.

Curated by Annie Dellepiane alongside founder Francisca Parodi, the exhibit draws from nearly 400 pieces spanning avant-garde Japanese fashion from the 1980s to today. Notable pieces include Yamamotos spring 1993 deconstructed black cotton knit dress, Comme des Garons spring 1997 Lumps and Bumps black-and-white gingham dress, and Miyakes 1998 Gunpowder dress created in collaboration with artist Cai Guo-Qiang. Additional garments will rotate throughout the exhibition, which runs until May.

The central concept of Ma, the space between, plays a key role in the presentation. Inspired by kimono traditions that leave space at the collar, the exhibit incorporates intentional gaps and voids to encourage reflection and a slower appreciation of fashion history. Gonzalo Parodi, director and son of Francisca, described the effect as silent music, exemplified by Comme des Garons fall 2014 spiral dress displayed within the Zen garden alongside rocks and a custom wool wig.

Visitors are invited to explore other Japanese design philosophies, such as the interplay of time, heritage, and respect for ancestors. The exhibition evokes Tokyos essence through its thoughtful arrangements: a dress hidden behind a shoji screen, garments hung from simple bamboo rods, and Naoko Itos multimedia sculpture Flora placed near Miyakes A-POC piece.

Gonzalo Parodi emphasized that the exhibition aims to reveal the philosophical foundation of Japanese fashion design and its distinctive aesthetic, which diverged from Western norms when Japanese designers emerged on the global stage in the 1980s. These designers told the West they would do it their way, not Paris way, he noted.

The experience extends beyond fashion with upcoming workshops in Zen garden design and calligraphy, Japanese whiskey tastings, and film screenings. The Zen garden itself will be periodically refreshed, encouraging repeat visits to discover new details.

Looking ahead, the Parodi Costume Collection will co-curate a subsequent exhibition dedicated entirely to Issey Miyake, featuring over 60 pieces focusing on his 1990s work. This collection will debut at the Kent State University Museum in October 2026.

Author: Harper Simmons