Brief glimpses of Tehran: A changing and challenged Iran witnessed by an AP journalist

TEHRAN, Iran (AP) Entering Tehran, the first sights of women without head coverings appear sporadicallya fleeting passenger in a speeding car or a pedestrian navigating the citys congested streets. But in the cooler northern districts, along the sycamore-lined Vali-e Asr Street, uncovered women are far more visible, showing hair in shades of brown, black, blonde, and gray.

Increasingly, Iranian women are rejecting the compulsory hijab, a practice that would have been unimaginable in previous years in the Islamic Republic, where conservative clerics and hard-line politicians have long enforced strict dress codes. The turning point came after the 2022 death of Mahsa Amini, sparking nationwide protests that mobilized women across generations in ways not seen since Irans 1979 Islamic Revolution.

When I moved to Iran in 1999, showing a single strand of hair could lead someone to warn me to cover it immediately to avoid the morality police, recalled Holly Dagres, senior fellow at the Washington Institute for Near East Policy. Seeing women and girls openly defy the hijab today is extraordinary.

Authorities are struggling to manage the scale of noncompliance, fearing that a strict crackdownamid power outages, water shortages, and economic strugglescould ignite further protests.

During a brief visit to Iran on a three-day visa to attend a summit addressed by Iranian Foreign Minister Abbas Araghchi, tensions over Tehrans nuclear program were evident. Although access beyond the summit was limited, the visit offered a firsthand look at the country since previous trips in 2018 and 2019.

Over the years, Irans leaders have strictly enforced the hijab rule. Police and the paramilitary Basij monitored women to ensure compliance, though at times women gradually tested boundaries by pulling their scarves further back. Complete removal, however, remained rareuntil recently.

Reports from AP colleagues in Iran hinted at a growing refusal to wear the hijab, but the scale was striking in person. Near Tajrish Square, at the base of the Alborz Mountains, young schoolgirls immediately removed their headscarves after leaving school, running through traffic with laughter and carrying art projects. Women of all ages went uncovered in the Tajrish Bazaar and near the Imamzadeh Saleh shrine, with police paying little attention. At the upscale Espinas Palace Hotel, multiple women walked past signs urging hijab adherence without covering their hair.

Even in more conservative southern districts, uncovered women could be seen walking among others in traditional black chadors. One Iranian woman, recently emigrated to Canada, recounted feeling constrained and lacking confidence due to years of mandatory hijab compliance.

The physical scars of conflict are visible too, with apartment buildings still bearing damage from previous Israeli strikes.

Within Iran, hardliners continue to call for stricter hijab enforcement, while reformist voices, including President Masoud Pezeshkian, argue for personal choice. Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei has largely left the issue aside, alongside maintaining heavily subsidized gasoline prices, despite mounting economic pressures and inflation, which has seen the rial trade at over 1 million to $1.

Public dissatisfaction with the government is evident. Surveys, including one by the state-linked Iranian Students Polling Agency, suggest widespread discontentacknowledged by officials who have traditionally portrayed national unity during the 12-day conflict with Israel. Pezeshkian noted that many provinces report discontent due to inadequate public services.

Polling aligns with low voter turnout in last years presidential election and reflects a population weary from economic hardship, unemployment, environmental challenges, and eroded trust in institutions, according to the National Iranian American Council.

Fear of renewed government crackdowns persists among Iranians, coupled with anxiety about another potential conflict with Israel. Sometimes that fear is with me, said the Canadian-based Iranian woman. Even behind the wheel, I check if my headscarf is on. That fear remains.

The Associated Press receives support for nuclear security coverage from the Carnegie Corporation of New York and Outrider Foundation. All content is solely the responsibility of the AP.

Analysis: The Growing Rejection of the Compulsory Hijab in Iran

Over the past year, Iran has witnessed an unprecedented shift in the public stance on the compulsory hijab. The death of Mahsa Amini in 2022 ignited a nationwide uprising, and with it, a wave of defiance against the mandatory hijab law that has been a cornerstone of the Islamic Republic since its inception. While Tehran's streets remain a battleground of compliance and resistance, an increasing number of women have chosen to defy the dress code, marking a turning point in the country's social dynamics.

Historically, women who dared to push the boundaries of the hijab rule were met with severe consequences. The presence of the morality police and the watchful eyes of the paramilitary Basij ensured that non-compliance was rare. However, today, the situation is starkly different. In northern districts of Tehran, uncovered women can be seen more frequently, with a growing number of young girls and women removing their scarves in public spaces without fear of immediate reprisal.

Authorities are faced with a difficult dilemma. On the one hand, they are wary of cracking down too hard, especially as the country grapples with other significant crises such as power outages, economic struggles, and water shortages. On the other hand, the lack of enforcement has led to a visible and growing resistance. The government’s hesitation reflects an understanding that a full-scale crackdown could ignite further unrest, potentially leading to another round of protests.

Despite this, the hardline voices within Iran continue to call for stricter enforcement. While reformist politicians like President Masoud Pezeshkian argue for personal choice, the broader political landscape remains divided on the issue. The Supreme Leader’s silence on the matter has left the hijab debate unresolved, even as economic difficulties continue to erode public trust in the government.

In the midst of this, women in Iran remain at the forefront of a revolution of personal agency and self-expression. The changes are evident, with younger generations rejecting the constraints that once defined their daily lives. As Iran continues to grapple with these shifting social dynamics, the future of the hijab law remains uncertain, but the growing resistance is undeniable.

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• In brief glimpses of Tehran, an AP journalist sees a changing and challenged Iran