New protections granted to deepwater sharks killed for cosmetics in 'significant moment'

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  • Last update: 12/01/2025
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New protections granted to deepwater sharks killed for cosmetics in 'significant moment'

Gulper sharks, recognized for their luminous green eyes and slender frames, are ancient ocean dwellers that have existed for millions of years. Despite their wide distribution at depths of 200 to 1,500 meters, much about their behavior and biology remains unknown. However, these deep-sea predators are now facing a severe threat.

About 75% of gulper shark species are at risk of extinction due to targeted fishing for their liver oil, which is exceptionally rich in squalene. This compound is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and antioxidant properties. Research from the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) has shown that shark liver oil is found in products ranging from makeup and sunscreen to nicotine patches and medical ointments.

A significant step toward protecting these species came on November 28 during the 20th Conference of Parties for the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. New international trade regulations now offer stronger protections for over 70 species of sharks and rays. Gulper sharks have been added to CITES Appendix II, enabling closer monitoring of trade, while critically endangered species such as whale sharks, oceanic white-tip sharks, and manta rays have been moved to Appendix I, which bans commercial trade entirely.

Luke Warwick, director of shark and ray conservation at the Wildlife Conservation Society, emphasized the urgency: Sharks and rays are among the most threatened species on Earth, and time is running out. Todays decisions provide them with a real chance to recover.

Deepwater species, long overlooked in trade regulations, are now receiving attention. Previously, none of the more than 145 sharks and rays listed in CITES Appendix II were deep-sea species. As deepwater fishing increases due to advances in technology and declining coastal fish stocks, these sharks face growing danger. A 2024 study in Science on 521 deepwater shark and ray species found that nearly two-thirds of the threatened species were exploited for liver oil.

Gulper sharks, which can reach up to 2 meters in length, are especially targeted because their liver oil contains more than 70% squalene, the highest among all shark families. Populations have fallen by over 80% in some regions. Matt Collis, senior policy director at IFAW, noted that these declines have occurred in just the last 2030 years, driven by both the value of their liver oil and the increasing efficiency of fisheries.

Because gulper sharks mature slowly and reproduce infrequently, overfishing poses an enormous risk. Estimates suggest that certain species, like the so-called dumb gulper shark in Australia, could take 86 years to recover just 25% of their original populations. Collis compared their reproductive patterns to mammals, highlighting their vulnerability to fishing pressures.

Despite this, deepwater sharks face a multibillion-dollar industry. Grand View Research reported that the global squalene market reached $150 million in 2023, with 80% plant-based, mostly from olives. However, producing one ton of squalene from sharks requires roughly 3,000 animals. The cosmetics industry is the largest consumer, accounting for over 70% of the market.

While some brands, including LOreal and Unilever, shifted to plant-based squalene as early as 2008, others continued using shark-derived products. Biossance has been using sugarcane-based squalane since 2016, demonstrating that sustainable alternatives are viable and effective.

Collis emphasized that international trade regulations are the most effective method to protect gulper sharks. CITES provides compliance mechanisms that can suspend trade if countries fail to ensure sustainable sourcing or legal acquisition. Biossance echoed that regulating trade for cosmetic ingredients is crucial for marine biodiversity and will accelerate the move away from animal-derived products.

The UK government-led proposal for Appendix II listing, now approved, was considered long overdue. With countries like the Maldives reopening gulper shark fisheries despite historic population collapses, international rules are essential to prevent further declines.

Conservationists hope these measures will prevent gulper sharks from disappearing entirely. As Collis stated, They cannot withstand the current level of exploitation and recover at the same pace as other fish species.

Addition from the author

Analysis: The Ongoing Threat to Gulper Sharks and the Path Forward

The recent addition of gulper sharks to CITES Appendix II, alongside other shark and ray species, marks a significant step in global conservation efforts. However, the reality remains that these deep-sea predators are facing a severe and ongoing threat, primarily driven by the demand for their liver oil, rich in squalene. This compound has found its way into a wide array of products, from cosmetics to medical ointments, exacerbating the pressure on already vulnerable populations.

Despite their wide distribution at depths of 200 to 1,500 meters, gulper sharks have been largely overlooked in conservation discussions until now. This gap in attention is particularly alarming given the shark's slow reproductive rates and the rapid expansion of deepwater fishing. It’s a scenario where technological advances in fishing gear have led to higher catch rates, further accelerating the decline in shark populations.

Furthermore, the gulper shark’s biology makes it uniquely susceptible to overfishing. With populations in some regions plummeting by more than 80% in just a few decades, there is little time left for meaningful intervention. Their slow maturation process, compared to other fish species, means they cannot recover at the same rate, leaving them particularly vulnerable to the pressure of global trade.

Even with the positive development of stronger international regulations, including the CITES listings, the battle is far from over. The focus now needs to shift from simply regulating trade to ensuring enforcement and sustainable sourcing. As long as demand for shark-derived squalene persists, gulper sharks will remain at risk. Encouragingly, sustainable alternatives, such as plant-based squalene, are gaining traction, but the cosmetics industry as a whole must continue to evolve towards more eco-friendly solutions.

The recent steps taken in Uzbekistan are crucial, but they are just the beginning. Continued international cooperation and enforcement of these new regulations are essential to safeguarding the future of these ancient ocean dwellers.

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Author: Sophia Brooks

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