'We selected it': PKK fighters value life in Iraq's mountains

A Kurdish fighter carefully navigates a winding mountain road in Iraq before stopping to alert his comrades in a hidden bunker that visitors are approaching. Using a phone hanging from a tree, he guides a team of AFP journalists into a secluded base beneath the Qandil mountains, granting rare access to the Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) stronghold in northern Iraq.

"A peace initiative doesnt mean abandoning the mountains," explains Serda Mazlum Gabar, a 47-year-old commander with striking rust-colored hair and a warm smile. "Even if we leave, life here remains unchanged. Nature doesnt intimidate me, but urban environments with traffic and smoke feel unsafe," she added.

Following instructions from the imprisoned founder Abdullah calan, the PKK has recently taken historic steps to move towards ending its long-standing conflict with Turkey, a struggle that has claimed roughly 50,000 lives. The group officially renounced armed struggle, and thirty fighters ceremonially destroyed their weapons. Despite this symbolic gesture, many fighters at the Qandil base still carried rifles during AFPs visit.

For decades, the PKK has relied on the mountains of northern Iraq and southeastern Turkey as a sanctuary. Though combat has paused, the guerrilla lifestyle persists, adapting to new peaceful roles, the commander explained. "We didnt choose this life out of necessity; we chose it ourselves," she said.

At the bunker entrance, a large fan connected to a duct supplies fresh air to the hidden interior. Inside, a corridor opens up where PKK members, dressed in traditional olive green uniforms or dusty-colored clothing, stand to welcome visitors. The corridor branches into multiple rooms, each serving a distinct purpose. One area, adorned with plants and strings of lights, is reserved for female fighters.

Recently, fighters returning from Turkey have arrived in Iraqs mountains to show commitment to the peace process. Among them is Vejin Dersim, who joined the PKK at 23 and spent most of her time in southeastern Turkey. Now 34, she has relocated to the Qandil mountains. "Leaving was emotional. The area is special, especially being closer to leader Apo," she said, referring to calan, held in solitary confinement on Turkeys Imrali island since 1999.

Devrim Palu, 47, who joined the movement in 1999, has also returned to Iraq. "In our movement, location doesnt define where you serve, and staying in one place isnt necessary," he said quietly. He added that the PKK can transform its operations from armed conflict to peaceful engagement.

Despite being classified as a "terrorist organization" by the United States and the European Union, the PKK has participated in multiple peace talks with Turkey over the years. The group has evolved from a separatist movement into advocates for Kurdish equality, now emphasizing a democratic approach to protecting minority rights.

Palu notes that operating from Iraq offers advantages, with top commanders nearby and news arriving directly. Within the AFP-visited bunker, walls display photos of calan and fallen fighters. In the kitchen, members prepare lahmajun, bread topped with meat, while others relax, drink tea, or maintain communications with surrounding units. Qandil has long served as the PKKs stronghold, offering a safer refuge than southeastern Turkey. Initially hiding in caves, fighters later built and expanded multiple bunkers, establishing the area as their headquarters.

"I could drive through these mountains with my eyes closed," one fighter said, maneuvering the rugged terrain at night with expert precision.

Author: Sophia Brooks